Pitti Uomo 110. Maybe the Pitti we once knew is not coming back. And that might not be a bad thing.

Photo by Pitti immagine

Every year, as soon as Pitti Uomo closes its doors, the same question comes back:

“Has Pitti returned to what it used to be?”

I understand the question. But I believe it is the wrong one.

The world that made the era of Pitti’s biggest numbers possible no longer exists. Its highest point remains Pitti Uomo 92, June 2017: 1,220 brands, 19,400 buyers, and more than 30,000 visitors.

That was the peak of the old model.

Wholesale was still extremely powerful. Menswear was growing. Multi-brand retailers played a central role. The economic climate was favorable. The geopolitical landscape was less complex.

Buyers traveled more, bought more, and took bigger risks. An order was not just a sales forecast. It was a bet on the future.

And Pitti was where those bets were made.

Then the market started to change. Slowly at first, and then all at once.

E-commerce changed buying habits. Brands invested more in direct-to-consumer sales. Many independent stores disappeared. Retailers became more cautious, buying less and managing risk more carefully.

The pandemic did not create this change.

It simply pressed the accelerator.

From that moment on, measuring Pitti against the standards of 2017 stopped making much sense.

Pitti Uomo 108, June 2025, proved exactly that: 740 brands, 11,400 buyers, and more than 15,000 visitors.

Smaller than 2017, of course. But remarkably efficient.

In 2017, each brand had access to around 15.9 buyers. In 2025, the figure was still 15.4. Almost the same.

That number tells us something very clear: Pitti lost volume, not importance.

It reduced quantity but maintained a strong professional audience.

Then came Pitti Uomo 110, June 2026: 740 brands, 11,000 buyers, and more than 14,000 visitors.

Some people may see these numbers as a decline.

I see them differently. Pitti has found a new balance.

It is no longer trying to be the biggest. It is trying to be the right place.

The place where a buyer can still touch a fabric, examine the construction of a garment, understand the research behind a collection, and speak directly with the people who created it.

Today, that is worth more than simply filling a pavilion with as many brands as possible.

The value of a trade fair is no longer about bringing together the highest number of people. It is about bringing together the right people.

In recent days, there has also been a lot of discussion about events, concerts, activations, street style, photographers outside the entrances, and social media content.

All of this is true.

Fashion is chasing attention. Sometimes it confuses visibility with value. Noise with relevance.

But let’s not pretend that the past was only about fabrics, quiet conversations, and handshakes.

Those who experienced the golden years remember the Pitti Peacocks, the photographers, and the outfits designed to be noticed.

The desire to be seen existed back then too. The difference was that the market was growing, so the noise mattered less.

Today, the environment is tougher. Every investment needs a reason.

The problem is not the concert. It is not the event. It is not the photo taken in front of the Fortezza.

The problem starts when storytelling replaces the product.

When image becomes more powerful than identity.

When marketing tries to hide what the product is no longer able to communicate.

This is where Pitti Uomo 110 sends an interesting signal.

After years of speed, endless content, and collections designed to be photographed before they are even worn, menswear seems to be moving back toward something more tangible.

Materials. Construction. Expertise. Quality.

Simple words. Very difficult to achieve.

The most interesting number is not that there are 11,000 buyers today instead of 19,400 in 2017.

The most interesting fact is that, in a more unstable market with fewer stores, more digital competition, more cautious spending, and a completely different commercial landscape, 11,000 professionals still choose Florence.

That matters.

If I had to give a name to the three symbolic editions of the last decade, I would describe them like this.

Pitti Uomo 92, 2017: the peak of the old model.

Pitti Uomo 108, 2025: the selective rebirth.

Pitti Uomo 110, 2026: the maturity of the new Pitti.

A smaller Pitti. A more aware Pitti. Perhaps a Pitti closer to its true identity.

The question is no longer whether it should return to 2017.

The real question is whether, today, it is more important for a trade fair to be the biggest or to be indispensable.

I have my own answer.

For those who were in Florence this year, what did you really experience?

Did you see a Pitti that has lost something, or a Pitti that has finally found a new identity?

Romina Tosi

Disclaimer

The views expressed above represent my personal interpretation of publicly available information and, like any interpretation, may be shared, debated, or challenged.

The information referenced comes from public sources available at the time of publication, including official documents, union communications, press articles, and materials accessible to anyone. I do not disclose confidential information or facts learned through privileged access. I do not reveal protected information, nor do I attribute unlawful conduct to individuals or companies.

Any reference to specific cases is intended solely to provide context and analyze dynamics affecting the broader industry. It is not intended to target individuals or particular businesses.

Observations regarding industrial strategies, financial decisions, and production models fall within the right to express opinions and commentary on matters of public interest. They remain personal assessments, not definitive judgments.

Not all companies operate in the same way. Alongside businesses that may deserve criticism, there are many others that work with seriousness, consistency, and long-term vision.

If you notice any errors or inaccuracies, please let me know. I will be happy to review and correct them where necessary.

The purpose of this reflection is to encourage discussion and debate, not to cause harm to individuals, companies, or organizations.